
Over the past week or so I’ve been on a bit of a road trip around different parts of
Finland. Katri and I started our travels in a small town called Sääksmäki where Katri played doublebass in a classical music festival, while I ate food and stayed in the hotel provided to the musicians. Sääksmäki is a small town about 30 kilometres south of the city of
Tampere, where I will be studying in January 2008. I think we left Pieksämäki for Sääksmäki last Wednesday (11 July), but I’ve been getting confused about the days of the week as every day has felt like a Saturday since I quit work. If you’re beginning to wonder about the meaning of the word “mäki”, it means hill and as there are many towns named after hills, and many Finns named after towns, there are plenty of mäki’s all over
Finland.
Even more numerous than the hills, are the lakes here in Finland. When I first came to Finland I was amazed by all of the fresh water lakes, they are absolutely everywhere. Unfortunately the reason for all the freshwater lakes is that it rains and rains. In the summer of 2005 I had the pleasure of getting free tickets to the World Athletic Championships in Helsinki, as not many people wanted to watch track and field athletes compete in 6 inches of water during what should have been the “driest” week of the Finnish summer. During the Sääksmäki festival it also rained frequently. Finns are beginning to suspect that I bring the southern hemisphere winter to Finland each time I arrive on a holiday.
Thankfully classical music concerts are performed in indoor venues and the musicians were simply fantastic. Although my appetite for classical music does not match my appetite for watching cricket on television, it felt great to see such fine (mostly) Finnish musicians perform. Finland has a strong musical tradition and many of the graduates the Sibelius Academy play music professionally all over the world, but return to Finland during the summer holidays and perform in festivals like the one I attended. An example was the cellist Timo-Veikko, who plays in the Australian Chamber Orchestra and whom I had previously met in Perth, and who played an amazing Beethoven sonata for cello on an early 18th century instrument. The orchestra initially offered me the opportunity to play viola in some of their pieces, but as I am more of a pantomime musician who treats music as a good way to meet girls (I met my girlfriend Katri by sneaking my way into the Lund University orchestra), I politely declined.

Apart from the music, Katri and I also had time to walk around the neighbouring town of Valkeakoski and take some photos (see below). Another neighbouring town we visited was Toijala, which turned out to be where the brother of a friend of mine from Willetton High School, had recently built a house. Our time in Sääksmäki coincided with a Finnish glam-rock concert in Tampere which my friend Klaus was attending, so we stayed with Klaus at his brother’s house in Toijala after the festival, before travelling to Helsinki.
Klaus shares an apartment in Helsinki with a friend of his, who I met at a Finnish summer festival in 2002, and who has since been voted as the second sexiest man in Finland. I was flicking through some junk mail and noticed a picture of him in a catalogue, which you can see below. You can judge for yourself, but since I have arrived in the country, I'd like to think he'll now be relegated to third sexiest man in Finland.

Katri spent about six and a half years studying bass at the
Sibelius Academy in
Helsinki, so I had a good guide for my tour of the city. We travelled to Suomenlinna (translating to “Finland’s castle”), a sea fortress off Helsinki which has been used in the defence of three separate states – Sweden, Finland and Russia – giving the fortress special significance and a unique blend of architecture. For more information on Suomenlinna see: www.suomenlinna.fi/

That night we went for dinner with friends on another island, Uunisaari, where I experienced how much a glass of cheap South Australian wine costs in Finland, around 13 Euros (21 Australian dollars). That said, the food was delicious and there aren’t too many cities in the world that offer island restaurants with panoramic outlooks onto the sea. We also went for a drink at an Australian bar (not my idea!) which was surprisingly authentic, with bottom-shelf Australian lager, served by a foul-mouthed Australian bartender, who did not know a word of Finnish.
Following our stay in Helsinki, we stopped overnight at Katri’s parents’ summer cottage, which her father built on a lake in eastern Finland. This was my first time meeting her parents and it was a uniquely Finnish experience. Katri’s parents do not speak much English and as I speak even less Finnish, Katri acted as interpreter. One thing that needn’t be interpreted is my running from the sauna and jumping into the lake, naked in all my glory (though slightly less glorious when I climbed out of the cold water). Needless to say, I made a great impression on them and we will return to the summer cottage in a few days time.

The number of blueberries in the forest surrounding their summer cottage was absolutely amazing. You can easily pick half a litre of blueberries in half an hour, and given all the fruit picking I have done lately, I beginning to feel like a true backpacker. But the forest is not without its own dangers, with the neighbours reporting that a bear (or “karhu” in Finnish, which I remember as it is also the name of a popular beer I have drunk here) had been swimming in a nearby lake. A storm also passed through the region last night, resulting in trees falling on 30 summer cottages. Time truly stands still in the Finnish forests and I can’t wait to get back out there in my retro sports gear, which should be bright enough to scare off most things lurking in the woods.
